| Author |
Message |
Posted by:
David Rankine
Thursday, November 05, 2009
06:03 pm | Can this be done with the fork tubes on the bike? |
Posted by:
Albert Schuman
Thursday, November 05, 2009
06:05 pm | Yes, with the front wheel raised off the ground. |
Posted by:
David Rankine
Thursday, November 05, 2009
08:53 pm | Was just curious cause I've heard you needed a special tool to compress the springs. |
Posted by:
Albert Schuman
Friday, November 06, 2009
01:29 pm | No just enough weight to push the springs back down in the tubes and turn the fork cap too. I used a speed wrench and 2 17 mm nuts on the bolt, put the bolt head in the cap, used two nuts tightened together to slip the socket over. I had a 17 mm allen wrench to loosen the cap, but loosen the pinch bolt 1st. |
Posted by:
Ray Colgin
Friday, November 06, 2009
09:40 pm | Another method .. if the fork caps have the "add air" capability.
With the springs removed ... find the point that the fork cap threads just "start" . Mark the fork cap and top of the tube so as to provide an index mark to use as a guide . Gotta be careful..the threads are pretty fine and easy to cross thread .
I use a half dollar.. and a long phillips screwdriver.
Remove the brass air fitting from the fork cap.
Select a longer phillips screwdriver that will pass thru the hole in the fork cap .
Drill a hole (Not too big) in the center of the half dollar to provide a locator for the point of the screwdriver .
Place the fork cap on the screwdriver..and the half dollar on top of the spring... PUSH the spring down while "your assistant" starts the threads . Never booger the threads this way ; since you're using fingers to rotate the fork cap |
Posted by:
Gary Lockwood
Saturday, November 07, 2009
12:00 pm | David,
Not sure if you have the interstate model without the air shraeder valve, or asp/se with the air valve. Without, you need the nut and bolt adapter, with, you need the correct sized socket. I have used both an air impact gun and an electric drill. When putting in Progressives, you will have about an inch of heavy push. Jack up the wheel off the ground, and carefully, position yourself on the peg and passenger floorboard, or on a stool next to the peg. Press down as much as you can, and when it looks nice and straight, you should feel it click into place. Press the button on the impact/drill and screw right into the tubes. No offense, but if you weight under a couple hundred, you might want to get a friend to help you press them into place. Just easier when you use body weight instead of shaking muscles to push. Good luck.
-Gary
|
Posted by:
David Rankine
Saturday, November 07, 2009
02:13 pm | I have a SE and only weight 190. Maybe I can do it alone. Thanks guys for all the info. |
Posted by:
Richard T. Seater
Monday, November 09, 2009
08:26 am | David:
Sometimes it helps to loosen the top clamp bolt on the triple tree - make it easier to start the threads on the cap |
Posted by:
Allen Wheeler
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
09:05 am | David,
I have a 1992SE and weigh 165. I replaced the springs with Progressive springs. I used a speed wrench with a lot of padding on the end so I could get as much of my weight as possible over it. It took a few tries but was able to do it. I am 70 and was a little tired after I was done but it was worth the effort. Good luck.
Tom |
Posted by:
William Warren
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
10:03 am | 1/2" speed wrench (looks like old hand drill or hand crank) as other said, but after trying the padding, I fixed a board with a recessed spot in center. |
Posted by:
David Rankine
Saturday, November 14, 2009
07:35 pm | Thanks guys, but all done now. Used a puller with 2 arms connected to upper triple tree and slowly pulled cap nut down and backed cap nut till the treads match then tighten. All is well and what a difference. Think I was due. The original springs were the proper length, just didn't have tension as when new. After all I only have 238,000 miles on the bike. |
