| Author |
Message |
Posted by:
Greg Huizenga
Thursday, October 22, 2009
12:55 pm | I have a 2001 GL1800 without ABS. If I do a panic stop using the foot brake only at 15mph I can get the rear tire to lock up and skid. I tried this before changing brake fluid this time and it was working fine. I changed the brake fluid following the service manual sequence the old fashion way. My buddy pumped and held the brake while I went around in sequence and cracked the bleeders until there was no air coming out any of the lines. OK, here is the problem, now when I do the panic stop rear brake only, the front wheel will lock up and skid the last 3 feet without the back wheel locking up and skidding. So when I make a normal stop using the front (hand) brake to do about75% of my stopping power and touch the foot brake pedal, the front wheel locks up and skids (scary). But, I can put the bike on the center stand, with the bike idling in second gear, and push on the foot brake and stop the rear wheel and kill the engine. So this tells me the rear brake caliper is getting pressure to it but the front is getting more from the foot brake than it should.
So has anyone had this happen? Would the problem be with the secondary master cylinder, the proportional control valve, or the delay? Any ideas?
Thanks
Greg |
Posted by:
James Jones
Thursday, October 22, 2009
07:38 pm | Greg, you said you bled the brakes the old fashion way. Go back and bleed the brakes with a Mity Vac. DO NOT PUMP ANY OF THE BRAKES OR THE SECONDARY MASTER CYLINDER. For the rear, bleed the Bottom left front bleeder first, then the top right front bleeder. Then bleed the bottom rear and next the anti-dive piston, then the top rear. You more than likely still have air in the system.
James I. Jones |
Posted by:
Greg Huizenga
Thursday, October 22, 2009
10:18 pm | James as I said above, I changed the fluid following the service manual sequence (ie front left bottom, front right top, rear bottom, antidive, and rear top). I did not mention that I used a Mity Vac first because it sucked air in around the threads of the bleeder(no I didn't feel the need of taking them all out and putting teflon on the threads) and it was difficult to tell when I had all the air out of the system. All in all they have been bled 4 times, I am fairly sure that bleeding them one more time will make no difference.
Thanks
Greg |
Posted by:
Albert Schuman
Friday, October 23, 2009
08:04 am | Greg when using the Mighty Vac you can reduce a lot of problems with bubbles just by not overdrawing, use just enough vacuum to move the fluids.Putting a wrap on the bleeder threads is no big deal, a onetime thing, one can even use a dab of grease over the bleeder and on the threads if you wish. |
Posted by:
James Jones
Friday, October 23, 2009
01:42 pm | Greg, the reason I told you to use a Mity-Vac is the old fashion way does not always work on the 1800s. I have tried it unsuccessfully several times that way. even with the bubbles coming out on the Mity-vac, it works better. Just make sure and not drain the reservoir. One thing to do when bleeding is to pump the brake pedal after closing each bleed screw That will insure you have a full brake pedal when finished. I have bled the brakes on a lot of 1800s and the Mity-Vac is the way to go.
James I. Jones |
Posted by:
Greg Huizenga
Friday, October 23, 2009
03:47 pm | Now that I have more fluid, I'll try bleeding them a couple more times. Some say do it the old-fashion way, some say do it with the mity-vac. I've bled them 3 times the old-fashion way and only once with the mity-vac. So I'll give the mity-vac a couple more tries since you guys say it is the ticket.
Thanks
Greg |
|
