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Battery or Alternator?
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Posted by:
Ernest Attilio Pasquot

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
11:20 am
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I was riding home at night and i noticed the lights looked dim. I downshifted for a stop light. The bike died. Had it towed home. Charged the battery. It started, then dead. About an hour later it started. Volt meter indicates approx 13volts. It looks like about 12 volts when the engine is running. This is a 99 wing se. 59,000 miles origional alternator. Battery is a maintainace free Yuasa. about 1 1/2 years old. What to do next?
Posted by:
James Jones

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
11:34 am
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Put a volt meter on the battery and see what it is charging to with the engine revved to about 2,000 RPM. If it does not go up to about 13.5 to 14 volts, the alternator is not charging. Either the brushes are worn to the point that one is sticking or the windings in the alternator are broken and it is time to remove it and send it to Ken Hemming for repair.
James I. Jones
Posted by:
Keith Cobb

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
12:20 pm
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James +1.....
Keith Cobb
Shreveport, LA
FOP
Posted by:
Thomas Jens

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
12:34 pm
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+2
T. A. JENS "THE PIZZA MAN"

HAVE A GREAT DAY AND A BETTER ONE TOMORROW !

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Posted by:
Albert Schuman

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
12:37 pm
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+ 3 and maybe add a Battery Bug to the battery.
Posted by:
Richard Davison

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
01:40 pm
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Check it at the alternator. For some reason when a battery is bad and the alternator is good it will read higher right off the back of the alternator rather than at the battery.
I suspect battery problem (just replaced mine after road side trouble).
Rich Davison

Posted by:
Charles Dunagin

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
04:56 pm
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Ernest said that it looked like 12 volts with the engine running. I'd bet it's the alternator.
Charlie D. in SC. on red SE

States Ridden in

Us



Posted by:
Jim Holowchak

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
04:57 pm
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At 59,000 miles, if the brushes have never been changed, that's likely the problem. They're worn out at about that mileage.
Best regards,

Jim

My Ride
Posted by:
Robert Dowdy

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
08:47 pm
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I agree with Jim H. Brushes worn or sticky, you may get the 13.5 volts on the test, and the dead battery after riding. Make the brush change, it will take away the chances. Also, while you're there, change the rear bearing, it's worth the $5.
Bob
Posted by:
William Curry

Wednesday, October 21, 2009
09:41 pm
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Ernest, you lucky dog! 59k on a '99 alternator. I got 15k on a'00 when it died, call Ken.
Posted by:
Lynn Mobley

Thursday, October 22, 2009
06:24 am
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I would remove the battery and slow charge it over night. Then take it to just about any auto parts store and have it load tested for free. If the battery yest good then you could just about be sure it is your alternator. I not saying you need this but if you do check out the battery and alt deal at compu-fire. www.compufire.com I did that deal on my 99 Valkyrie and i was very happy with it. Even if your alt is good, with that milage it would not be a bad idea to go with the comu-fire. You won't be sorry. also they are a GWRRA sponser.

(Message edited on October 22, 2009)
Posted by:
Ernest Attilio Pasquot

Friday, October 23, 2009
08:20 am
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Could someone tell me how to check voltage at the rear of the alternator?
Posted by:
Richard Hinchley

Saturday, October 24, 2009
12:27 pm
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Ernest, hook up a voltmeter with the negative lead on the battery neg post. The positve voltmeter lead you connect to the battery cable at the rear of the alt ( the big lead ) If the alt is working correctly the voltage reading a the alt should be about .2 to .5 more than the reading at the battery. Do both tests at the same engine rpm for a valid test
Rick
91 SE 86 Interstate

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